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best engine oil

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The Castrol Magnatec multigrade is the best I believe. I have used no other oil on my 21 year old Maruti 800 other than Castrol (GTX, GTX Extra and now Mangatec). The car's engine is almost like new till today.

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There was a long discussion in the early days about the various oils available.

There are two parameters - viscosity and the grade.

Viscosity in modern oils is stated as, say, 20W50. 20W is the viscosity when cold and stands for SAE20 Winter Grade. SAE50 is the viscosity of the oil when hot. In other words the oil is 20W when cold (the lower the number, the easier the starting) and does not get thinner than 50. This limit is defined by the operating conditions, and the oil should have a rating equal to (or higher) than the number specified. In other words an oil which is SAE20W30 when should not be used in a car which requires SAE20W40, while 10W50 should be Ok.

The next is the quality. Nowadays, for petrols, it will be API-SL, SM or SN. SL is mineral based, SM semi-synth and SN full synth.A synth oil will last longest but exceed the car makers interval at your risk. In general irrespective of your driving oil & filter must be replaced at least once a year.

The final parameter is diesel or petrol. Diesel oils have a higher detergent content. Most better oils have both a petrol and a diesel rating.

Added: It may not be a good idea to use a synth until the engine is run-in

sgiitk2008-07-02 07:07:55

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Viscosity in modern oils is stated as' date=' say, 20W50. 20W is the viscosity when cold and stands for SAE20 Winter Grade. SAE50 is the viscosity of the oil when hot. In other words the oil is 20W when cold (the lower the number, the easier the starting) and does not get thinner than 50. This limit is defined by the operating conditions, and the oil should have a rating equal to (or higher) than the number specified. In other words an oil which is SAE20W30 when should not be used in a car which requires SAE20W40, while 10W50 should be Ok.[/quote']

The above is why I asked you whether Shell is 10W30. Because 30 is too low for normal Indian conditions.

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Check your owner's handbook. Most cars in India demand 40 for our conditions, but some are happy with 30. A lower grade should give improvement (marginal) in consumption.

Essentially a 10W30 oil is a 10W oil with viscosity improvers which prevent the old from thinning beyond SAE30 when hot.

Both my Hyundai's demand SAE40. I prefer Castrol Magnatec, failing which I have used GTX2 and also Shell sometimes.With an annual mileage of no more than 8,000km per car I follow an annual service/oil change schedule. The same was the case with my earlier cars Esteem & Zen.

I would suggest go for a decent SM oil. The old SAE-A to J is now replaced by the new nomenclature SL-SN.

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MEA CULPA: A correction

The next is the quality. Nowadays' date=' for petrols, it will be API-SL, SM or SN. SL is mineral based, SM semi-synth and SN full synth.A synth oil will last longest but exceed the car makers interval at your risk. In general irrespective of your driving oil & filter must be replaced at least once a year.

[/quote']

There is no API-SN. Semi or Full synthetics are all SM. Even some mineral oils are SM.

sgiitk2010-06-18 10:15:13

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I'm looking for a synthetic power steering oil for my ikon 1.4 duratorq. Does anyone know where I can buy it in Bangalore? Im currenly using the TQ oil (mineral based) for my power steering. Anyone who knows, please reply.

You are in the wrong thread. This thread is on engine oils.

MODERATOR

sgiitk2010-06-29 06:24:56

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hi guys this is my first post in this forum.

well i would like to give you a brief description of the history of my car.

in 2008 i bought a honda city gxi. now i went ahead with the regular services with honda A.S.S. which i did not like.

first it was too far from my place and i was not satisfied with the end result of the work performed.

so i started giving my car to my trusted mechanic.

i was told by the honda guys that the oil they use in mineral 10w-30 idemitsu engine oil and that it should be changed every 3 months or 5000kms whichever is earlier (this was as per honda norms) .

so i asked my mechanic about this oil to which he said that this oil (grade) was not available in the market and he would recommend castrol magnatec 10w-40. not convinced with this i instead brought oil from the US 0w-40 mobil 1

and also some engine flush(dont know the brand).

after the said oil change(done at 9800kms) i started having e very rough engine feel. the pick up was not good as the car would stall at signals resulting in heavy clutch usage.

i immediately changed the oil to castrol magnatec and the problem of stalling got solved but the engine roughness remained.

after driving the car about 3000kms i got fed up and complained this to my mechanic to which he inquired with his parts supplier to which he gave us idemitsu 5w-30 API-SJ engine oil. he said that it was the best oil and was specifically made for sx4 and grand vitara with VVT(as mentioned on the container).

he also mentioed that this oil was very rare and was infact cheaper than castrol and was made by savita enterprises under license from idemitsu. well since last 12000kms i have been using it and i am quite happy with the specific grade.

now to my horror i happened to read my honda manual and came to know that honda recommeds minimum api-SL GRADE OIL .

should i change the grade of the oil and buy shell helix ultra 5w-40 from india or mobil 1 0w-40(available in india/made in malaysia) or castrol edge 5w-40 or motul 8100excess 5w-40, as all this oils are API-SM and the best available in the market.

please advice me on this as its giving me sleepless nights.

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@mdesai; The choice is yours. Most oils from non-PSs will conform to API-SL. If I remember correctly Honda says that with a non-synthetic oil change is once in sis months (5000km) while with a synthetic you can got for a year/10000km. I am not sure whether this applies to the City as well.

Quite frankly your car is out of warranty, so you feel free to do as you like. I will got for a good semi-synth (say Magnatec) which is API-SM and stretch the oil change (and service) to once a year or 10,000km. If you want to spend more then you may go for a full synthetic and be happy. It is not cost effective, since the cost of a semi is less than half of that of a full synth.

Honda themselves are selling oils from Idemitsu which they get through Savita.

Recently October 2010), API-SN has been announced. Details in normal English are awaited.

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@mdesai; The choice is yours. Most oils from non-PSs will conform to API-SL. If I remember correctly Honda says that with a non-synthetic oil change is once in sis months (5000km) while with a synthetic you can got for a year/10000km. I am not sure whether this applies to the City as well. Quite frankly your car is out of warranty' date=' so you feel free to do as you like. I will got for a good semi-synth (say Magnatec) which is API-SM and stretch the oil change (and service) to once a year or 10,000km. If you want to spend more then you may go for a full synthetic and be happy. It is not cost effective, since the cost of a semi is less than half of that of a full synth.Honda themselves are selling oils from Idemitsu which they get through Savita.Recently October 2010), API-SN has been announced. Details in normal English are awaited.[/quote']

just one small but precise question since u own a honda civic. will you use this api-sj 5w30 idemitsu oil which i have been using? i dont want to know the interval as that is purely on ones usage

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i know u have been using synthetic but just incase if your car was demanding mineral oil.

also the service interval that you specified is for civic, for city its 3 months/5000kms.

also will there be any adverse effects on the engine by using this oil?

i really like the oil and is suiting to my driving style very much.

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Let me try:

 I will NOT use API-SJ when the specs demands API-SL. You can even get mineral API-SM!

yes, the manual says, 5000/3 months - a benefit scheme for the dealers.

Within warranty you are obliged to follow the requirements. Once out of warranty do as you please. A  friend of mine who is a CA called me last week about his City. He was a bit shaky about 12 months/10000km but will definitely go for 6 months/5000 for service and once a year for oil change.

Also, you do not have a VTeC so the stress is much less. No 6700rpm redline....

Let us not give more virtues to the oil, than what it deserves. Forget the brand, just look at the specs. You can also get Castrol Magnatec in 5W30!

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ok now i have put mobil super hp 10-30 api-SL . the only prolem happened is that he happened to fill in 100-200 ml more than required . i hope it will not cause any problem!

how would you rate mobil super engine oil? and is it ok if i overfill by 100~200 ml? will it cause any problem? and if yes can i do so after 100-200 kms of running as i dont have much time to go back to the mechanic.

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Drain intervals can be extended to 30,000 Miles (50,000Km) with a few tweaks to the engine.  Changing the oil is directly proportional to the oil industries vested desire to sell it and has little to do with extending the life of the power plant.  It's a good thing.  It creates countless jobs and great multi-media presentations.  The market provides a zillion variations of lubricants for you to choose and various international agencies rank each in accordance with  their own personal bias.  Finally, each variation is subject to verbage so contorted and convoluted that English majors delight in its untangling.

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@Brn2Crz:

Forget 50,000kms, even 15000 kms Oil change interval seems to be tricky here in India, thanks to Dusty conditions & poor driving habits here.

Even at 8000kms you can see Suspended particles in the Oil in a top to top class engine here & probably this is the reason for which Honda recommends Oil change at every 5000kms for its cars here but IMHO the best one is to change the Engine Oil at every 10,000kms which can be supposed to be Cricical limit & is followed by most of the Auto manufacturers here.

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Aha!  The secret is in the details.  ie: "...a few tweaks to the engine."  The lamentable state of lubrication systems leads the parade.  Oil filters have an average porosity of 30 microns giving them the capacity to effortlessly strain out nuts, bolts, soda bottles and other dangerous items that might affect the engine.  Unfortuneately, cam and crank bearing clearance  is 2 - 4 microns making the principal oil filter an afterthought and somewhat useless.  Well I will concede that the oil filter does keep the upper oil gallery loaded via the drain back valve.  So what can one do to "tweak" that engine and change that oil at much, much longer intervals?

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