nishweth

best engine oil

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nishu: if you look at a diesel oil then even after 3000km you will see a blackening due to soot! How do you react the the 20,000km change in the Manza. I still stick by my view that more frequent changes are a dealer (and co) benefit programme. Furthermore, throwing away perfectly sound oil is definitely environmentally bad. I will say once a year and 10,000/15,000 and may be 20,000 (if so recommended) is quite sound.

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My Maruti Esteem manual says that depending upon the operating temperature in the area, one can use any type of viscosity engine oil.  The manual has given a table indicating the temperatures in C and F and the oil SAE grades starting from 5W30 to 20W50. 

As I live in Tirupati where the average temperature is around 35 to 40 C in other seasons and around 45 in summer, I have opted for Castrol GTX SAE 20W50 API SL.  As that grade is costly and is not available locally (even though there are thousands of vehicles and quite a number of service centres and car showrooms), I had to specifically get it by order from Chennai.  The 15% extra cost is worth spending as the engine is always smooth and cool, even in summer.     

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@Brn 2Crz:

Isn't that too fine filters gets clogged easily in conditions like here in India.

But anyways can you please give the details of any specific code of them or branding of that Oil filters or website related to their details, etc ? 

 

@sgiitk sir;

Though Tata offers same 1.3 MjD/QjD engine from Fiat range but their engines are differently tweaked & are way different than that used by Fiat cars.

They run on different engine Oils, as Fiat recommends Full Synthetic engine Oil for their cars only & that's imported by Fiat India from Italy only with Service Interval of 15,000kms/1 year(same as VW) whereas Tata recommends conventional Mineral Oil usage with 10,000kms Service Intervals for its both Indica Vista & Manza.

20,000kms is a distant dream in Indian conditions.

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I read on the other forum that the manual of the Manza does give the option of 20,000km on Synth. The chap conformed from the A$$. Even if the manual asks for synth there is normally a mineral option with twice the frequency for oil changes. If you work out the cost the latter is a cheaper option. Forget oil by them for themselves - look at the specs and buy from the market. In any case I have stuck to the 10,000km / 12 months rule since at least 1991 and have never felt sorry for it. I do not drive enough on either of my cars to have to look at the 10,000+ scenario. When Synths first came in the main USP was 20,000+ miles of life.

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Let's assume it's a new car and you want to extend its service life while lowering costs. 

1.  Following the break-in period have the engine flushed at a service center that has the proper equipment. Make sure that following the service they blow out the upper gallery by injecting air into the center of the oil filter nipple on the engine block.....then they need to pre-lube by injecting 200ml at the same point on the block.  The best way is to use a 1mt. clear plastic hose.  Force it over the threaded nipple on the block.  Fill it with and API rated class II fully synthetic oil and use a couple of taps with an air hose to inject it. (yes leave the drain open so the rest of the cleaner can drain out.) 

2.  Replace the drain plug with a new after market magnetic plug.  Install the plug properly (don't over torque it).

3.    A Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter is my particular choice so fill it up, lube the ring and install it.

4.  Complete the oil change with Mobil 1 severe extended service synthetic oil.

5. Change out the air filter with the manufacturers stock filter every six months.

6. Change the oil filter every six months.

7. Change the oil at 15,000 mile intervals.  Ok, you can do it once a year, at 7500 mile intervals or even once a week but with this level of maintenance even Mobil will recommend 15k.

You need not flush the engine again. Just keep the air and oil filters changed.

This is the first level.  There are many, many more things you can do such as oil analysis, by-pass filtering, beta 99 and such and, yes, I changed my mind about by-pass filtering due to  positive technological evolution.  The end result is greatly reduced maintenance, even in India.

A final note:...fully modified diesel truck engines have passed the 2 million mile mark in the USA.  The technology exists much to the dissatisfaction of the oil industry.

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1. As far as I know there are flushing oils and injecting air at high pressures causes more harm than draining just oil. Big players like Nismo, TRD, do not support the air injecting process. Some even does not recommend flushing oils. It is better to flow a little amount of fresh synthetic oil from filler till it reaches drain plug.

2. Again magnetic filters have their disadvantages. It is not recommended due to presence of wires, electrical equipments in proximity and that it captures essential ingredients of the oil that helps to keep pistons lubricated through out.

3. Air filters run for much longer time. Cleaning every week will do a lot good than changing. Just because they are cheap does not mean that they are worthless. Even air filters of cars like Santro, Alto etc run for 5-6 years if properly cleaned.

4. Not all cars react to synthetics in the better way.  I know handful of guys who wasted cans of Mobil 1 and their money by using those in cars like WagonR and Alto. A direct transition to synthetic can cause loss in FE and pick up. Better start with semi synthetic to guess.

5. If your car is starting its life with mineral oil, it is better to leave it under mineral till the run in period. (say 10-15 thousand km) and then change to semi or fully synthetic.

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1.  Engine Flushing is accepted and required by all major fleet managers especially in dealing with engines that need to be optimized after several years of use.  The use of air to blow out the upper gallery will push almost a half liter out of the system and since there are no restrictions there is no ill effect.  Using air to pre-lube is a common practice to load out the journals, cams and pump preventing a dry start and scouring.

2.  It's not a magnetic filter.  It is a drain plug that has a magnetic tip.  There are no magnetic elements in oil other than contaminants.  They stick to the tip and you can clean the plug with a rag.

3.  Air filters are cheap and the manufacturers are pretty good.  In dusty areas filters get changed every month.  You can keep a filter forever if you live in New Zealand, but even there the presence of 15u particles is plentiful.  Aspirated dust kills engines.  Filters are cheap.  Isn't the goal to make your engine last forever at optimum performance?

4.  Why don't cars come with synthetic from the factory?  It's break-in.  Factory oil in new cars comes loaded with an additive to grind all those little parts into a harmonious marriage.  That's why you have to dump it after break-in ...flush the rest out....and reload with the best you can get.  Synthetics are "small molecule" products (I don't want to explain syns here).  They are slipperier and have a better viscosity and thin film range.  They are heat resistant.  Properly applied, they last incredibly longer.  You must know which class of synthetic you have.  Class three (a change in verbage) allowed manufacturers to put some mineral in it to bing down the price, so keep with class IIs.  I like Wagon Rs and other runabouts.  There are lots of tweaks to get the max out of the powertrain. 

5.  I agree.  Let that engine run in.  Baby it.  When you go for your first free dealer oil change (that's ok...switch to syns after that period) make sure they also change the air filter.  Remember...filters are cheap, engines aren't.  Blowing out the air filter with air or washing it doesn't work.  Even using a K&N or Amsoil filter which you wash, dry and re-oil is touchy.  Oil is sucked off, sticks on the MAF sensor and changes the fuel mixture (oh...gee maybe I don't have a MAF but you do have an IAC and when the pintle leaks you are going to have a lot of fun a few klics down the road.

Ever notice that everything orbits around keeping things clean?

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well my 2 bits of info of putting syn oil and reg mineral oil.

frankly i would go as per what the manufacturer recommends.

honda doest recommend engine oil/radiator flushing at all.

they do not even recommend any liquid additives/cleaners in whatsoever form.

so as mr.sgiitk says go by the manual/ and specifications provived by the manufacturer.

unless one has a modified ride i would suggest stick to the manual as your bible for the car.

regarding using compressed air i havent seen that recommended by any manufacturer.

also magnetic oil filters. well if they were good why did not any manufacturer provide it as a standard fitment, just like how honda provides iridium spark plugs on their cars as factory fitment.

also my question about extra 200 ml oil added to the engine. is it ok to ride with it or should i asap go and get it rectified?

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Hyundais are using SERVO from IndianOil we had run Hyundais cars more than a lakh of kms , perfectly,

here I beleive for our dusty conditions    Frequent changes help a the engine better ,

Running engine on higher RPM constantly ,

running car at high ambient temperatures ,

Are running at a very low ambient temp

Need synthetic oils at average of 800 rs per litre

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Well I don't know anything more than SHELL HELIX..nor I want to know..After testing all the everything available in the market,what I have found is that its the best..and all of my cars are running on it..even my pulsar 200 too..and everything is working fantastically with no sign of ageing at all.

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I forgot.  One of the most important things you can do to protect your engine is to install an oil cooler.  It will definitely add years of life you to your engine.

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Engine oil plays vital role in maintaining engine performance. Also the use of engine oil depends on the engine specification. Multiple brands are available in market where you can get engine oil but for best engine oil I'll suggest you to go for Castrol, Motul, Valvoline, Veedol, Divyol, Mobil 1 which are the best for your engine. 

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