dtandon

Overheating Maruti 800

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Our Indigo XL faces similar problem of overheating but at opposite operating conditions. It overheats and the coolant comes out of Auxillary Tank's cap if operated at 90-100kmph. No problem if operated at speeds <=80kmph. More Details at below link.

 http://www.autocarindia.com/new/autocar_forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2962

 

Can someone tell me what is the problem in our car? The Dealer says Head Gasket will have to be replaced. But our car does not suffer from Poor Pickup or Fuel Efficiency problem.
Bye.

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I'm taking my car in for changing the head gasket tomorrow - having clocked 100K+ km's on my car - its might need new valves, piston's and rings anyways.. Will let you know if the new gasket fixes my problem. 

 

You should try to look for brown slush like oil droplets in your coolant - park your car on a slope so that the front part is higher ( or just jack up the front end) and make sure its stablely parked - use the handbrake and make sure its safe and doesn't go sliding off  - then open the radiator cap and make sure you can see the surface of the coolant. If its low then just top it off with water. Let you engine idle for 5-10 minutes. Then rev your engine to about 2500 RPM (half throttle) for another 5 min. Stay away from the open radiator - never bring your face close to the radiator opening. If your head gasket is leaking, you should see some oil droplets floating on the top of the coolant surface - They will look like light brown foam.

 

Raising the front of the car is important - because oil being lighter than water, will settle in the highest place in the cooling system - when you raise the front - it should flow the the top of the radiator cap. This helps detect minute leakage from the gasket and its how I convinced myself that I need a new one.

 

If you don't see any signs of oil in you coolant - check your engine oil as well.. Does it look normal ?

If all this looks ok - your gasket is probably fine.

Rs 10,000 for a head gasket change sounds very high (but I've never owned a tata car and might be wrong) - ask your dealer for a breakup of the parts cost and labour. He might be changing some extra parts (as preventive maintainence) that might otherwise be good for another 20-30K km.. talk to him about that.

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He said "If  Head Gasket has to be replaced then the Injectors also should have to be replaced as well".

The Head Gasket replacing alone will cost about Rs.8000-10000/- + Injectors extra. The injectors of Common Rail are costly as compared normal Diesel Engine. Total cost will go in range of Rs.20000-25000/-.

So its better if I drive at the speeds <=80kmph. This will not overheat the Engine and also the Fuel Efficiency will be Better as well.

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My 800's running fine now with a new head gasket in place. No overheating or coolant loss now.

Some corrosion was noticed in the head while changing the gasket - but it was between two channels of the water jacket - hence no chance of that causing a oil-coolant mixup. The workshop was insisting that I change the head - but I steered clear of that. Did a 1000Km trip on the weekend and all's well.

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Hi, dtandon,

The reason for your car over heating could be due to a choked exhaust pipe at low speeds the exhaust gases may not be passing out cleanly causing back pressure on the manifold and hence increasing the coolant temperature.

When the car is at higher speeds the wind hitting the raditor helps overcoming the point at which the coolant overheats thus not resulting in overheat at high speeds.

You got to change the exhaust pipe-manifold and the muffler, if you have not done it for 100K.

If not then the other points mentioned by the members need to be checked

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His problem has been solved. It was traced to a worn out head gasket.

 

FRG

 

Yes - but what is shocking is that the workshop (at a one of the bigger Maruti dealer's in town) misdiagnosed the problem thrice -

 

They charged me for - a thermostat replacement(Rs 250 + labour), radiator fan switch replacement (Rs900+ labour) and a coolant flush(Rs 300). And none of these resolved the problem. They were perhaps ignorant or not well trained. This time - I had to insist that they replace the head gasket.

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This is not only limited to this dealership, it happens at a lot more service stations. Training needs to be better. Most tecnhicians go by the trial and error method which means the customer is sometimes charged for unnecessary parts. It always pays to be well informed about the workings of your car so you don't get taken for a ride.

 

By the way I appreciate the amount of effort taken by you to solve your problem. Good information this. It might also help others.

 

FRG

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CONGRATS TO ME.

          The problem of Coolant spilling out of Auxillary Tank's Cap has been solved. The reason of Overheating and the coolant spilling was that "Radiator Fan was not working when the Temperature Gauge tried to cross the Half Mark.

       Now I replaced the Radiator Fan Sensor which activates the Radiator Fan when the Temperature of the Engine tries to increase above Half Mark (>90 Degree C). Now the Fan gets activated when the Engine Temperature goes above 90 Degree C and cools the coolant.

            I did not have to replace the Head Gasket but only a Radiator Fan Sensor which cost me Rs.232/- only.

 

Now I dont have any problem with the vehicle.

THREE CHEERS FOR ME.

HIP HIP HURRAY. HIP HIP HURRAY. HIP HIP HURRAY.

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Ok - I now have another very weird problem with the same M800 - My distributor seems to be running hot!

The plastic in the contact breaker point is melting! I'm referring to the plastic wedge attached to the moving side of the points that is in contact with the distributor's rotor to open the point gap when the engine is cranked.

So what's happening is - I fit a new point, get the dwell and advance set correctly, drive for a few days and the plastic wedge melts - spoiling the timing and eventually getting me stuck!

This has happened to two contact breaker points in the last 2K kms. The points seem to be genuine Lucas TVS and were sourced from a reliable source - the pack had the hologram.

Engine temperature is normal - All parts are genuine. And the car runs normally when the points are not melting themselves to oblivion.

I will post a picture of the ruined CB point if what I mentioned is not clear.

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I would look for the link from the previous fix. A fault following a fix is normally related to the fix. Obviously the rubbing of the cam and point wedge is overhearing it. Too much friction is my guess. Even fake points did not suffer melted wedges.

I suspect the distributor was removed and then something happened. May be a silly mechanic trying to polish the cam with emery. 

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Thanks for the really quick response -

I looked closely at the distributor - the lobes of the cam are smooth. Went ahead and smeared some grease on the cam.

(I never leave my car's side when anyone's working on them - always on the lookout for such brilliant ideas as someone deciding to using emery on the cam and grease on the springs and weights)

The Eureka electronic ignition kit might have to be used if the new point I fitted also fails (I must start looking for their adverts in the old magazines).

For the first time in nine years, my 800 broke down on me - molten wedge - CB points weren't opening at all.

Any chance that the problem could be electrical in nature ? (too much resistance - generating extra heat)

Will also write to Lucas TVS and complain about the CB points.

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I thought I might close the discussion. dtandon PM'ed me with the information that the failure was not at the cam side but the breaker points side.

This was obviously due to too much current through the points. I surmised that it could be a bad coil, or the ballast resistor being bypassed. He took a look and found leakage from the coil due to corrosion. The problem is now fixed.

Now working with points is becoming a lost art, so I am not too surprised. Keeps us dinosaurs still active though!

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Thanks sgiitk.

Though, I think I qualify as a part dinosaur myself smiley1.gif - have been working with points on premier's for 15 years now - but they didn't have ballast resistors and the wedges on those points are some kind of fiber (not plastic).

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i am facing similar problems.my radiator fan was direct right from the start,had issues with clutch soo that caused overheating many times. i now replaced the clutch assembly.but problem now is engine gets overheated and stops in heavy and slow moving traffic.none of the mechanics have been able to solve the problem

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Check the pressure cap on the radiator before looking further.

Coolant going down fast can often indicates some of it leaking into the engine.It is going somewhere either out of the overflow or into the engine!

sgiitk2011-01-23 10:06:19

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