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Hey guys, today finally it rained in Chandigarh. But it rained alot. And I mean ALOT. There was more water than the drains and sewers could handle. I was in my GRE class when it started raining and it was 2 hours to go to the end of my class. When I came out, I saw the streets waterlogged. COMPLETELY. There was a lot of water, but not enough to make me wait there till the level receeded. So I finally set out towards my home (~10 km) from there (Sec 17). As I drove for about 5 km, the water level had increased alot, mainly cuz of the southern low-lying sectors. There was large amount of water (The tyres of Maruti's and Alto's were completely underwater). I started to see more and more cars stranded on the road. As people drive in the centre of the road as the level of water is low, there was snail-pace moving traffic. The main victims were Maruti 800's and the Alto's, Zen, etc. Although I did see a few other upper segment cars also stranded, my ANHC drove all the way to my home, slowly and steadily. It took me over one hour to reach home safe and sound. Then after parking the car in the garage, my first job was to inspect it for any damage during the rain. Everything fine on the exterior. Woosh! Thank God. But when I peeped under the car, I saw two black colored plates hanging loosely from one end on the either side of the engine. Maybe these plates were meant to protect the engine and other parts from damage from underside. But what I saw was - two BRICKS lying on the right side plate (Labelled as plate 1). The right side plate is the bigger black plate. The left one is smaller (labelled as Plate-2 in the image). So after removing the bricks, I saw that the plate/sheet had deformed in shape, due to the weight of the brick.

Now tomorrow, I have to take my car for servicing (10,000km service). I will get the plate/sheet thing also repaired. Guys, I need your inputs as to what all things I should get checked tomorrow at the service station as a result of todays happening.    Also as the monsoon season is here, I wanted to go in for the Anti-rust coating. I guess this is the right time.

Please reply fast. Have to go tomorrow morning.

Here are a few photographs.

After the rain, parked in the house.

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Underside views

car1w.jpg

car2aj.jpg

car3vl.jpg

Please reply fast. Have to go tomorrow morning.

Drifty Punk!

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A somewhat similar incident happened in my 1st Gen. City. Nothing broke but a stone got stuck in the springs. It made awful noise while on the move. Sadly Honda workshop people were not able to pin-point the problem & were going to open the suspension but on insistence I inspected the car & spotted the stone. I myself removed the stone & drove away.

 

 

Thread moved.

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I just inpected the whole thing once again. Everything is pretty good. A small tear in the plastic sheet. Only the nuts and screws are to be fitted. And one of the nut-hole in the plastic sheet has got damaged/broken, so I'll ask the mechanic there to use a washer and then screw it tight. No point going in for a new sheet.

Anti-rust coating is to be done tomorrow. I wonder how much it costs. And how can we see if the coating has been done or not??

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Do get a thorough check up done on the engine and the fuel system since the car had waded through water logged areas.

Underbody anti rust coating is advisable only after five years in new generation cars.The paint job and metal treatment in new cars are meant to protect the underbody for at least five years-maybe lesser in moist and rainy areas that are humid all the 12 months like the coastal and hilly Himalayan terrains.Chandigarh is moist only during monsoons and thats no problem.

anjan_c20072010-07-04 13:53:54

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I had similar plates (there was only one) changed on my Accent three times in the eight years I had it. In the old days these engine/sumpguards used to me mad from tough hardboard, and were also called Elephant Hide. If I rmember on the Accent it was some Rs.400-500.

In modern cars they are to protect the sump and sometimes the bottom of the Cat. No damage will be done if you drive a bit with them, but do not forget replacement for months altogether.

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Anti-rust coating is to be done tomorrow. I wonder how much it costs. And how can we see if the coating has been done or not??

SB-Alto can tell you all about this.

He recently got anti-rust treatment for his Alto.

I think he had started a thread too.

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As visible from the pics, It looks like the Sump Guard & Radiator-Condenser beneath Protection Plate.

If it's of Plastic & is popped-out from one Screw, then you're right in going with fixing it with Washer.

 

& Regarding Anti-Rust Coating: Most of the modern cars comes with 5-years Warranty for Corrosion, If not then can easily last for 5-7 years(except Ambys) without picking the Rust as the Company already treats the Body Metal Sheet with various Chemicals & Processes to make it Durable.   

 

& the Best way to get Rid of the Corrosion is, After driving through the Dirty & Slushy Terrains -do Wash the Dirty surface of the Car with Clean/Fresh/Tap water to remove that layer of the Dirt over the Body Surface, just for Once.

Good Luck Drifty.. smiley20.gif

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 I wonder how much it costs.

I guess' date=' it costed me 3k.

 

 

And how can we see if the coating has been done or not??

It will be a black layer underbody like a tar coat.

 


SB-Alto can tell you all about this.
He recently got anti-rust treatment for his Alto.
I think he had started a thread too.

May be he can say about its composition as what sb did is a DIY job which can't be feasible for many.

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Proper anti-rust also requires coating the inside of the doors, and spraying inside the sills. I am sure this was not done. You have been conned!

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Check below the Doors for rusting, my brothers NHC had rust formation below the doors, especially the front. Honda service have applied some paste & said that if the rust forms again they would replace the doors Free of charge.

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First of all, the anti-rust coating (including doors,exhaust and sills) was done 3 years back and had an warranty of 2 years. Recently I found the rubber paints has eroded and some areas showing very mild rust or bare metal(without rust). So I decided to paint it with primer and paint myself (just to protect) the under body. This was a DIY job and cost was around Rs300 and my own labor.

Secondly, the under body of an Alto is mainly composed of original chassis components and iron/steel materials without any plastic coverings. Most modern premium cars comes with such casings. So I wonder if a DIY job can be done in an ANHC or not.

It is always wise to go for an anti rust treatment early, as one might be unaware of sudden rusting. Most company claims that under body is already painted and needs no rust proofing but such paints are never long lasting. Anti rust should be done every 3 years

@driftpunk :

I am all for getting that anti -rust paint. Spending 3k wont be bad. There is an old proverb " A stitch in time saves nine"

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I think it is always better to get the anti-rust coating from a third partly than the authorized workshop. They usually do the job in better and sometimes a bit cheaper.

And for the good brands to go for, please ask the experts!

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@drifty,

Have that Underbody Sump Guard/Cladding fixing done ??

If yes, then at how much costs ??

How much the warranty they've given for that Anti-Rust treatment ?

& also how much FE are you getting from your ANHC ?

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I personally stopped going for anti rust after 1991 or so. Modern cars have an excellent anti rust treatment as standard. So they do not need any further treatment. If you are in high corrosion coastal areas then, maybe. Also, if you need a treatment then go for a reputed international brand like Dinitrol, not a backstreet job.

They may be an A$$ and where this type of specialised treatment is concerned they are a$$es.

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@Dr. Nishu and SG sir, I got the Underbody sump-guards (splashguard - as the Honda people call it) the very next day. It just required 2 locks to be put in. Moreover my 15k service was also due. Although the car has clocked just 8k. This was one thing that I wanted to ask you all that when should I go for my next service? As my monthly drive is around 600-750 km only. So I am aiming at the next service to be around March next year. Not before that.

I didnot go for Anti-Rust coating. Luckily on the day I had to go to the workshop, I was surfing through various threads on ACI and TBhp and I found at many places that its advisable to go in for Anti-Rust treatment after 3-4 years only. My dad was also of the same view! So I skipped AR-Treatment. Chandigarh gets seasonal rainfall. So I should stop worrying about the rust.smiley4.gif. Instead get the underbody checkups done along with the service. And yes, I checked-up with some market guys to see if they did Dinitrol ART.

Here's the pic of the bill of the service. The Clip BPR are the locks that were put in to fasten it. The thing that I made a fuss about at their workshop was that it was the first rain of the season and the first of my car. How could the splashguard locks open up so easily. (Just to pressurize the people there. Hehe. I know it inside that the amount of water present on the road was enough to strand my car, God's hand helped me reach safely without anything to worry about)

15kad.jpg

15kbil.jpg

@DD and Winner, Yea guys, I'm planning to go to Morni with my friends. I love to travel, infact I love to drive. Most probably today or tomorrow we'll go and have some fun!

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@driftpunk: you have raised two issues. Service interval, and when to go for anti rust.

Honda is now on a 6 month policy, and you have to follow this until your warranty is there. I may add that they now allow an annual oil change provided a synthetic is used. If I have my way then once the warranty is over 12 months/12000km is perfectly fine.

As for anti-rust if you are getting it then the best point is before you drive out of the showroom, i.e. earlier the better.

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Sir, when I went to get the oil change then they raised another confusion in my head. I asked them the advantage of Synthetic Oil (although I knew it). The service advisor guy there said that it increases the engine life and protects against damage. Bears high and low climatic temperatures. But they said that it is also to be changed after 6 months. Damn! I thought to myself. I live in a city. Do light-foot driving (sometimes go to around 5k RPM). NEVER do off-roading. No humid and hot conditions. All city driving. Why should I go in for Synthetic oil if it is to be changed after 6 months itself. And its price is more than the normal oil price. Please guide me on this if I am going the wrong way. It is also visible that its been 9 months and my car has gone around just 8k km.

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Synth v semi-synth is a vexing question. The manual of my Civic talks of API-SL. Now SL is a mineral/semi-synth grade. So far I have not used synth and the facts are - Esteem (over 6 years) bought by a local taxi operator with 63k. He sold it after a year and a half with 450k on the odo. Accent sold after almost 8 years on semi-synth/mineral throughout after the first change by Hyundai (as part of free service). Done 58k, no issues. None have had an engine job.

I just got for an oil with API-SM (there are mineral oils also with this spec). However, with the warranty issue you have only two options - synth (with annual change) or semi-synth/mineral with semi-annual change. Price wise the latter may work out cheaper! Take a call... In any case longevity is may be 250,000km plus, which I do not intend to keep any of my cars for. The only place I can see some advatnage in a synth is, say, Leh since the lower viscosity allows the oil to flow faster for the hydraulic lifters. Not where you and I live.

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