sudeepd

Advanced License
  • Content Count

    1,045
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sudeepd

  1. There are 2-3 FZ16 in my city Solapur, Maharashtra. All Red Colour.
  2. We bought Tata Indigo XL Grand Dicor in May 2007. There are two dealers in our city, Solapur, viz., Chavan Motors and Sterling Motors. Before buying, when I enquired at Chavan Motors, they quoted me Rs.8,57,XXX/- and Sterling Motors quoted me Rs.8,22,XXX/-. The Chavan Motors quoterd me Rs.35000/- more for same variant. We purchased car from Sterling Motors.
  3. The dog hit the Front Bumper of the Car. That means the Condenser and in turn, the Radiator should get damaged. Then why "All other parts except Radiator" started to Leak the Coolant. OK Now the Further Story=>> On 24th November, when I asked the Service Manager,Mr. Nitin Patil at Sterling Motors, Solapur (Our Dealer) about why the coolant is coming out of the Auxillary Tank's cap with pressure, he said "The Head Gasket will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, after opening Head Block, the Injectors will also have to be replaced with new ones. The cost of replacing Head Gasket will be more than Rs.10,000/- plus the cost of injectors. The injectors of Common Rail Engine are VERY Expensive as compared to normal TDI Engine injectors." That means the cost will go in the range of Rs.15,000-20,000/- plus. I asked him I am ready to face that much cost if he can give me assurity that the coolant will not come out of Auxillary Tank's cap after replacing the Head Gasket (and Injectors). But he told me that he can not give assurity of the work carried out. Then I asked if he cannot give me assurity, then why should I expend Rs.15000-20000/-plus. My relative (he lives in USA) had come for some official work to India. He told me if Head Gasket is gone (if Head Gasket is faulty), the car will suffer from poor Pickup and poor Fuel Efficiency (Loss of Fuel Efficiency of about 20-30%). But our car does not face either of above problems (poor pickup or poor fuel efficiency). The Pickup is as it was when New and Fuel Efficiency also is good. The coolant comes out only after the temperature has reached the HALF Mark and the car is driven at speeds of 90-100kmph (5th Gear).i.e., Suppose the engine is Cool. Start driving the car and after sometime the Engine Temperature start rising and come to the HALF Mark. Now after coming to Half Mark, if the car is driven at speeds of 90-100kmph (5th Gear), the coolant comes out of Auxillary Tank's cap. If the car is driven at speeds <=80kmph Even After Engine Temperature reaching Half Mark, the coolant does not come out. Then why only for 90-100kmph, the coolant comes out. On 25th November, I and my relative noticed that the Radiator Fan was not working and also the Heater was not blowing Hot Air (when I turned the AC Temperature Knob to RED Zone). I checked the Radiator Fuse (60A, for Radiator Fan not working) under bonnet, but it was OK and not blown. So on 26th, I went to a local garage to show the above problems of Radiator and Heater. But after travelling 7-8 kms distance to the garage in morning (10:15am), the Engine Temperature did not rise even to small extent. I told him to check that also. He checked the Temperature Sensor and told me to replace it. I replaced it. Then the Temperature Gauge showed Temperature of Engine. As for Heater problem, he opened the Centre Console (not complete dashboard) and showed me that the cable connected to the AC Temperature Knob was jammed. He freed it. Then Hot Air started coming when the Knob was turned to RED Zone and Cool Air when the Knob was turned to BLUE Zone. For Radiator Fan not working, he checked the Radiator Fuse (60A) but it was OK. Then he checked Relay Unit Fuse (5A) under bonnet. That also was OK. Then he told me to take the car to TASS as the car was having Sensors, it can be checked on Laptop only (using software). Then I went to our Dealer to check why the fan was not working. On the way after driving for 3-4 kms, the Engine Temperature Gauge started falling down slowly. It came down from HALF Mark (50%) to 25% while the car was moving (AND THAT TOO WITH RADIATOR FAN OFF). Again after 3-4 kms it came to 50%. The mechanic at our Dealer checked and said the Relay Unit Fuse (5A)was blown (this fuse was OK at the local garage). After replacing the fuse the Radiator Fan started working. Can someone help me in this matter?
  4. Hi there, We own Tata Indigo XL Grand Dicor, purchased on 03-05-2007 from 'Sterling Motors, Solapur'. It has crossed 63000+kms. The car since new is giving series of problems. 1. In June 2007, the car met with an accident (A dog came in front of car and got killed), which cost about Rs.35000/-. (Odometer reading 8,500kms.) 2. Again after 15 days, the coolant was leaking. So we showed to Sterling Motors (SM) from whom we purhcased. They replaced the Water Pump under warranty. (Odometer reading 9,740kms.) 3. In August 2007, the car stalled in middle of road while driving. I tried to start the car but in vain. There was a bus stop ahead of our car. A person on bus stop said that the Diesel is leaking from under the car. (Thank God that we were in our Home City and not on a Highway when the car stalled.) Then I called the Manager (Mr. Nitin Patil) of 'SM' and told him about the incident. He sent the Road Assistance car for inspection with some necessary parts. The mechanic checked and said that the Main Fuel Line (it is made of Metal) which supplies fuel to the Engine has developed a crack. The fuel leaked from there and hence the Engine was not starting. The mechanic went back to bring that metal pipe from SM as he did not bring it before. He then replaced it. I was charged Rs.300/- against the Road Assistance provided. The pipe was replaced under warranty. (Dont remember the Odometer Reading). 4. In February 2008, the car refused to start even if car was unlocked with Remote (Indigo XL comes with Factory-Fitted Engine Immobiliser). We tried unlocking the car with Remote 7-8 times but in vain. The 'LOCK' indicator on instrument panel was blinking continuously despite unlocking with Remote. The indicator was not turning OFF. It was night time and my Dad was at his friend's house which is 2-3 kms from our house. We parked and locked the car there safely and returned home. On next morning, a mechanic from Chavan Motors, Solapur (Tata Authorised Service Center) came and inspected the car. He interchanged the 60A fuse (not with a new one) but the 60A fuse present adjacent to it and tried to start the car. And what a surprise, the car started without any fuss. We brought the car to home. After 2 hours, again the car refused to unlock with Remote. Again the 'LOCK' indicator on instrument panel was refusing to go off. Again I interchanged the 60A fuse with its adjacent one. But still no sign to unlock. Again I interchanged both the 60A fuses and this time the car was unlocked with remote and the car started. We told SM (sterling Motors) about this. They inspected the car but could not find any problem. In March 2008, Mr. Nitin Patil (Sterling Motors) called me and said that the above problem of Remote Locking was detected in couple of other Indigo XLs also. So he told me to leave the car at their workshop and they will replace the Complete Remote Unlocking Kit with a New One. So I gave our car. They replaced the Complete Remote Unlocking Kit, the Timing Belt and the Pressure Plate (Both Timing Belt and Pressure Plate got wet with Engine Oil).All the three were replaced under warranty. (Odomter Reading 34,780kms.) 5. Again in April 2008, the Auxillary Coolant Tank starting leaking and had to be replaced under warranty. (Odometer Reading 38,150kms.) 6. Indigo Xl's Grand Variant comes with Electric Seats. In May 2008, the Front Passenger Seat refused to move 'To and Fro' (only back rest and height adjustment were able to be adjusted). Again I got it (Electric Adjustment Switch) replaced under warranty. (Odometer Reading 41,593kms.) 7. Again in May 2008, the starter refused to start the car. After showing to SM, they repaired the starter under warranty. (Odometer Reading 42,758kms.) 8. In September 2008, the AC Belt was replaced under Warranty. (odometer Reading 53,950kms.) 9. Again in October 2008, the car suffered from Coolant Leakage and also the Temperature Guage showed that the Engine overheated, then the Engine shut off because of Overheating. This time Auxillary Coolant Tank was replaced under warranty. (Odometer Reading 57430kms.) 10. In November 2008, again the Coolant Leakage Problem arosed. And this time the Temperature Guage on instrument panel showed that the car was overheating. The car This time SM replaced the Thermostat stating that the coolant was coming out of the Auxillary Tank's cap because of Back Pressure. Now still the Coolant Leakage is present Now I am thinking of going to Tata Motors Regional Office and tell them to sort the problem as I lost faith in Tata Motors Dealership. Also I will contact helpdesk@autocarindia.com. But when I emailed to helpdesk@autocarindia.com on 20 March 2008 for some other problem, I received no feedback from ACI. Still waiting for the reply from Autocar India. There's a post of this topic (Please see topic of 20-25 March 2008 on this Forum). FRG (Manish), please Private Message me your Mobile Number. I want to call you and discuss about this series of Problems. And I know you will definitely help me in contacting ACI HelpDesk. sudeepd2008-11-23 14:58:54
  5. Hi Friends, I own a June 2003 Scooty Pep (75cc). It has crossed 26000+kms. At first it used to run at 50kmph on Economy Mode (on flat road). But from past 3000-4000kms, it does not even cross 30kmph on Economy Mode. 2-3 days before, my brother went to college on it. While returning, the Pep gave some jerks and shut off. My brother tried to start it but in vain. Neither the Self-Start was working nor the Kick. The Kick got jammed. He showed to nearest mechanic. The mechanic said the Engine Bearing has to be replaced. I brought Pep to my known garage. He opened the engine and said the balls of Engine Bearing broke and the particles of the balls got stuck in between piston and the cylinder causing the piston to damage. I replaced Piston + Block + Crankshaft Rod + Engine Bearings + Oil Seal. Now I know that as the Piston is New, the Pep should be ridden slowly. But another problem is that the Pep does not pull Even Single Rider in Economy Mode as it used to pull Double Seat (Rider With Pillion) when New in 2003.i.e., in 2003 the Pep used to pull Double Seat with Ease from Rest in Economy Mode. I will ask tomorrow about this to the Garage Owner. Can Anybody of you put light on this matter?
  6. You should go for a bike which has tyres that are capable of handling the bad roads easily. The mud guards should also be large enough so that the clay cannot obstruct the free movement of the wheels. Also the ground clearance should be good enough. You have not mentioned your budget and other requirements other than off road capability.
  7. One more question. After shifting to a higher gear or a lower gear then how long (in metres) should the vehicle (Bike or Car) travel before again shifting to another gear (higher or lower) to avoid damage to gearbox?
  8. What about while downshifting? Can bypassing be carried out while downshifting without harming the gearbox?
  9. 3.What is the reason for not to shift directly bypassing the middle gears?sudeepd2008-08-08 17:04:04
  10. @anjan Means one should not skip middle gears while upshifting. But one can skip middle gears while downshifting. Right?
  11. SG, you are making mistake. I think you want to say try and keep the rpm between (just above) peak torque and (just below) peak power.
  12. Max Power comes at some rpm less than Max RPM. Example- In Tata Indigo XL's Owner's Manual, it is given that "Max Power is 70Ps at 4000 RPM as per DIN 70020", "Max Torque is 140Nm at 1800-3000rpm as per DIN 70020". The Engine of Tata Indigo XL can be revolved upto more than 4000 rpm (around 4500-5000rpm). So Max Power is obtained below Max RPM.
  13. Hi Everyone, I am back with more questions. 1. Should the Gear Lever be Brought to Neutral Position everytime while shifting? Example=While shifting from 1st Gear to 2nd Gear, should the lever be brought to Neutral Position (From 1st Gear) First and then shift to 2nd or the lever should be pulled in a straight line all the way left? 3. While shifting between Gears, is it necessary to take a brief pause (0.5-1 second) at the Neutral Position or shift within milliseconds? Example=While shifting from 2nd Gear to 3rd Gear, should I pause at Neutral Position or shift from 2nd Gear to 3rd Gear within milliseconds without taking any pause? 4. Can I shift to any Gear from any Gear bypassing middle gears? Upshifting- Means suppose if I drive upto 70-80kmph in 3rd Gear, can I shift directly to 5th bypassing the 4th Gear. Downshifting- Also can I downshift from 5th or 4th Gear directly to 2nd or 1st Gear, irrespectively (I dont know opposite of respectively, so I wrote irrespectively. Correct Me, if wrong) bypassing the middle Gears? Means if I want to shift from 5th to 1st Gear, can I? More to Come. -Sudeep
  14. @sgiitk Please answer my questions 1. "How does the Turbocharger get lubricated after starting and before stopping the engine?". Who tells the Turbocharger to lubricate itself? 2. Does the turbocharger get lubricated only when the vehicle is at rest and in Neutral Gear? If suppose the vehicle is in Neutral Gear but in motion, then will Turbocharger get lubricated? Or atleast someone give me a link where I can get correct answers to my questions. Bye.
  15. Please explain in simpler language. I did not get you. Do you mean it is not necessary to run the turbocharged engine for 30 seconds at idle rpm? sudeepd2008-07-31 09:31:57
  16. I think you dont own a turbocharged vehicle and you havent read about it in the Owner's Manual of Turbocharged Vehicle either. In the owner's manual (and also on the inner side of Driver's door) of Tata Indigo, it is clearly mentioned that "Note: Turbocharged Engine. Please run the engine at idle for 30 seconds after starting the engine and also before stopping the engine to allow the Turbocharger to get lubricated with Engine Oil. Dont you know that Turbocharger Spins at more than 1,00,000 rpm i.e., 1 lakh rpm? Hence lubrication is required to avoid damage to Turbocharger. The lubrication allows the Turbocharger to COOL DOWN. Does Anyone have CORRECT answers to my Questions? Sudeep.