Intermediate License
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Everything posted by luukie

  1. Any helping hands???? Where do I look for these parts (used or non oem)? Instrument cluster assembly from showroom is a whopping app: 7k . Delhi and Bangalore are accessible city for me though I am in kerala.
  2. Huh... more tears!!!!... The speedo stopped working. The Rpm, fuel, heat meters work. When trying to fix it(the repair dint workout as well), the instrument cluster gauge face tore. If at all the repair works out, will I get a gauge face separate from anywhere?? I checked with the local market here but no avail to this.
  3. The replaced sensor is T.P sensor Rs 1750. Now the vehicle is smooth. Which replacement headlight bulb should I use as the beam throw of the existing bulb is inadequate. I am considering only 60/55 bulbs. Philips claims 20-50m longer throw on extreme light model (60/55). Or are there any other advisable brands/models.
  4. Are the automatic headlight dipper thats seen on the high end cars fool proof? If so I think they should be made mandatory for all the vehicles. (huh... slightly off topic ).
  5. Spark too is worth considering.
  6. I would prefer Logan to Ikon. I have traveled in both these cars and but only have driven Ikon. The driver dynmics for Ikon is nice. But the ride was way too bumpy in ikon where at the same time logan smothered all those bad roads well. I would prefer the base Dle variant that comes with p/steering and no p/Windws. And I would go for an after market p/window instead as the power window switches in logans are awkwardly placed(may be personal). It would be way cheaper too compared to the next higher model with these goodies.
  7. Fiesta is known for its driver oriented dynamics. You will feel the sharp edges on the road at slow speeds in fiesta. But verna on the other hand has soft suspension which would cushion you well on potholed roads at slower speeds. But its heard its a little scary at highway speeds.
  8. After the ECU scan they say a sensor and a relay is the culprit. A sensor to draw power from the engine is what I understood(not sure though, as I could talk only over phone). But still I am skeptical over this theory as this vibration is also evident when I move the vehicle on first gear at certain low Rpms without AC. If I push the Rpm a little further its smooth.
  9. or is it higher torque at higher rpm for higher top end speed????
  10. you can also write to they would take up the issue for you with the ford.
  11. Boring bahrain but the japan MGP was exciting.
  12. I am really sorry for these multiple posts. I was just trying to edit my earlier posts.
  13. PS: How do I edit the post made earlier? Dint find any edit button so had to make a new post.
  14. Changed all the oils and filters. They checked A/C compressor bearings. all intact. PS : How do I edit the post made earlier? Dint find any edit button so had to make a new post.
  15. Changed all the oils and filters. They checked A/C compressor bearings. all intact. PS: How do I edit the post made earlier? Dint find any edit button so had to make a new post.
  16. The true value prices would be 10-15k higher than the market but would give you tremendous peace of mind. Else, if you could find a genuine used car from any one you know, even if you spend 10k on repairs you get a new-like car.
  17. I got my car yesterday. I replaced all those parts mentioned by the hyundai service at almost 60% percent the quatation they gave. Following are the replaced parts. 1)Steeering Tie rod end Rs620 2)CV joint Rs1450 3)Stab Link \ Bar RH Rs450 4)Steering Ball joint Rs680 5)Axle Boot Rs110Brake shoe Rs1200 And as a peace-of-mind, I changed all the spark plugs, oils and filters. The overall rattle has almost disappeared except for some good vibration at certain low rpms. This is due to the engine mounting, which the Bosch people said, had tweaked the bushes and fixed. So I returned the vehicle to replace those bushes. The mechanic first tried to tweak the Rpm so that those low rpms are not met frequently. But still was vibration was existent. So I asked them to replace those bush. This vibration pops up only when the vehicle is in idle and the AC is on(at 500 to 600 Rpm range). When I press the acclerator a little, this dissappears( at 750 to 950 Rpm range). What the mechanic first tried was to set Rpm to this level(750 to 950) when idle with ac on. Could anyone tell me what should be the normal Rpm reading for an idle car with the ac on?
  18. What does this ANHC stand for.. HC for Honda City and AN for All New???
  19. Hello guys.... I showed my car to that expert mechanic my friend recommended. But to my surprise this fellow was an accident-car-expert. So he dint find any probs with my car. The front sound and the drive shaft, suspension problem he says, all happens to a 90k run car. So no need to repair is what he says. Only repair when it is completely non-functional is his line of thinking. So I drove the vehicle to a bosch service centre where the mechanic was able to identify each and every problem that i thought was problematic. They 'l let me know the estimate and the exact parts that need replacement today.
  20. When decarbonizing, some solution is made to pass through all the parts of engine. And, with this solution teh carbon deposit is burned out. So when the carbon deposits are high the heat generated would be very high, which the engine parts may not withstand... This is what the service guy explained.....
  21. Yeah the service guy too spoke something like this... about some additives... How does it work? Will it affect the economy or performance..? Tommorow I am taking it to a private garage here, whom one of my friends owning an accent reccomended. He says this garage fellow does a neat job... 'L update then....