Brn2Crz

Intermediate License
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Everything posted by Brn2Crz

  1. The oil you use is dependent on the average ambient temperature. Check the owners manual. It will have a chart with various flavors of viscosity matched to ambient. 5-30 is used in colder climates. Synthetics have been discussed in other posts.
  2. The TDI is a good choice. Follow some simple rules to keep it trouble free. a. Idle down for a minute before shut down especially after a long hard ride. b. Keep the air and fuel filters clean. c. Follow the oil change routine. d. Have the tank cleaned every two years to keep the sludge and moisture out.
  3. You can change your tires anytime you want. A slightly wider tire will give a smoother ride. I had a set of Michelins and finally changed them at 100k and not for the wear. They had plenty of tread left but I was tired of them and the Michelin dealer gave me a generous trade in discount on a new set. I also purchased a new set of wheels to replace the stock rims (got a trade in discount on the rims too). They did the balance, alignment, suspension check and nitrogen so I was satisfied. Just want to emphasize that it was mostly a cosmetic decision. The warranty on the new tires is 160k with free balance, rotation and nitrogen for the life of the warranty.
  4. Why would anyone want to do this?
  5. I should add a bit more. The only way that an engine can accelerate is if it has more air. Air is controlled by an air solenoid and they come in many shapes and sizes. There is also a plethora of vacuum tubes that can leak as well as gaskets in the plenum. You can also run a test with and without the a/c running as it also affects the IAC. Bottom line is to go to the dealer and get him to make that phone call.
  6. Which is it...the fuel pump assembly with a faulty sender or a bad gauge? That's easily checked. If it is indeed the fuel pump sender...(the pump and sender are separate you know) you might still have to replace the whole assembly.....and....if you have a lot of kilometers on the car then have them clean the gas tank and replace all the filters...both those in the tank and those outside of the tank. Sometimes...yes it is true....perhaps you just mashed the wire in the harness or got some dirt in the cable connector...don't let them jump on charging you for a pump assembly without diagnosing the problem correctly.
  7. That's because he probably didn't read the tranny harness signals to the ECU....if there were any signals. On some cars you have to diagnose the tranny separatel. That means putting it on the lift while monitoring the signals both (input and output) at the tranny and the ECU. Diagnosing the on-board electronic system takes patience and skill. There is a lot of interaction designed to keep emissions to a minimum. For instance when you let up on the gas, the ECU controls the rpm's to burn any residual fuel so you'll notice the rpm drops a bit slower. There are other conditions both mechanical and electronic too numerous to mention and if the mechanic can't solve it the go to the service office and have them call the regional engineer. He covers a pretty large area and it is his job to stay current on the factory service bulletins and resolve the issue with your car. Please keep in mind that new cars with new technologies require an automotive engineer with mechanical and electronic skill sets. Quite an upgrade from 20 years ago. ....and they make good money. Many small shops can't afford a professional but most know a specialist they can call...ie; the regional engineer.
  8. Go to a shop and have them diagnose the vehicle with the computer.
  9. The most important thing to keep in mind when it comes to automatic transmissions is that they wear out and it is an expensive process to rebuild them....yes, rebuild. Whenever you open it up...even for a faulty solenoid....you have to get the super master kit and replace all the friction plates and other parts..etc.etc.etc. If you own a tranny shop, you make good money.
  10. There are products for getting the carbon out but they are not available in India. Remember also that if your bike is a two cycle the mixture runs through the crankcase. Using the wrong chemical at the wrong place will ruin the seals. Good Luck
  11. The drain pipe could be fine and the problem is dirt in the airbox. Pull off the pipe and push a wire up there to see if you can flush it out if the pipe is ok.
  12. It's called a vapor lock...in most cases and is caused by a problem in the fuel delivery. It can also be caused by faulty ignition components so you have a lot to check.
  13. Brn2Crz

    AC on/off query

    Yes you can cycle it on and off. New cars will cycle the compressor automatically.
  14. sb-alto is right! I totally forgot to add that you must check your rims! Tire shops must follow factory protocol and use a calibrated torque wrench when mounting the rims. If not the rims will warp. Unfortunately, tire shops don't use a torque wrench. They just tighten the crap out of the bolts.
  15. How old is the station where you gas up? Older stations collect a lot of contaminate such as water in the underground tanks which goes directly into your tank. Try switching to a newer gas station.
  16. Flywheel I forgot one thing. Don't forget to check for cracks on support members such as the strut towers and the lower A assembly. Although not likely....rev the engine slowly through the operation range in neutral to ensure that it's not the engine vibrating.
  17. Tires can be sold as "blems" which means blemished...or what we call "#2s". These are the tires that don't meet exact specifications but can still be sold. A tire store can check them.\ If the tires balance off the car (assuming they were balanced correctly) but you have vibration when on the car have the tire store balance the tires while on the car. That is called dynamic balancing. Otherwise, check the entire suspension system including the rack and pinion. Remember that vibrations don't get better...they just get worse and could cause an accident.
  18. Check wheel bearings. Do a dynamic balance..ie...balance the tires while on the vehicle. Did you check the engine and body mounts, tie rod ends and the complete steering assembly? Are the tires first quality or blems? Make sure to check
  19. Turbos need clean air so keep that filter clean! There are several ways to keep up with turbo aging although they are a bit more technically involved. The first is to install an EGT meter. I can't stress how important it is to know your environment and driving habits to avoid an over-temp condition at the exhaust. When the engine is cold you can pull off the turbo and feel the turbine blade tips. If they are rounding tor deformed, you've exceeded temp. Spin the turbine blades with your finger ever-so-slowly to ensure that rotation is smooth through 360 degrees. If you feel the slightest pause then the shaft or bearings are gone. There are kits to rebuild turbos. I inject a minute amount of UV dye to spot hairline fractures in the exhaust manifold and turbo housing. This also allows you to spot leaks on the pressure side of the intake. Having a boost gauge will help keep the pop-off calibration honest. Use a digital IR thermometer to keep check on the input/output differential. Make sure to chart mixture vs rpm throughout the range. Once again we're getting a bit techie here. Remember that it is the mixture that destroys turbos. Last, but not absolute, make sure to check for down-line exhaust restrictions. If you are a motor head, we can wire up the computer and run diagnostics and calibration....but that is mostly for enthusiasts, racing and research.
  20. As I stated in an other post, waxes are obsolete. Newer products keep the shine for well over a year and are superior to waxes in every way.
  21. Waxing is obsolete and has been replaced by hi-tech ceramic sealers such as used by aircraft companies. They are standard for many manufacturers in the West but new to India.
  22. I'm a bit disappointed. It's not that it isn't pretty but it smacks of a kit car or a copy. Pretty isn't everything. I think that what is most irritating is calling it a "super car" and comparing it to "real" super cars ie: Ferrari, Bugati, Lambo, Mac....etc. As I read the review I choked when I got to the mechanical and performance. Nissan, Honda and a slew of others will eat it for breakfast. A 911 will suck it through the intake and spit it out the exhaust. India is capable of so, so much more. I suppose I should change my comment to disappointment with the Media for floating this crap in front a country (India) that has more high level engineers and savvy enthusiasts than any other country in the world. They aren't going to be fooled. If a super car is going to be built, then build a real super car.
  23. Brn2Crz

    i 20 performance

    Don't you love automatics? If you push an automatic, you'll replace it in two years. India has a lot of climatic conditions and the two that eat ATs are heat and humidity. In India you don't have access to performance extenders for ATs so just baby it as much as you can. If it is abnormally sluggish then have the shop download the dynamic performance data with the P/T scanner and match the data with the AT hydraulic actuators pressures. Good luck...AT's are a science.