Brn2Crz

Intermediate License
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Everything posted by Brn2Crz

  1. Volvo was sold to a Chinese firm in 2010.
  2. I TOTALLY agree with sgiitk
  3. http://compreviews.about.com/od/buyers/bb/DesktopPCs.htm i5 (ask for second generation) 4GB memory DDR3 500GB HD R/W Optical drive 2GB Video Card (like nVidia) Win7 19inch analog/digital monitor that suits you (good refresh, 1400 native resolution) This will last for a long, long time and should cost about 40,000. The i5 at whatever speed suits your budget is more than adequate.
  4. That's great! The dimmer switch has been a "recall" item since at least 2005. Which means it will be replaced regardless of the warranty. Whenever you have a situation with your car, such as Toyota...just Google....Toyota Dimmer Recall...and it will drag up every reference for that particular problem.
  5. I forgot. One of the most important things you can do to protect your engine is to install an oil cooler. It will definitely add years of life you to your engine.
  6. On the other hand, it's a minor financial outlay. The real issues are oil and gas. Since you drive so little, the crankcase never gets a chance to "cook out" the contaminants. That causes some sludge and varnish build up. The gas tank always loads out with moisture (especially if you only fill it half way) which will paint the injector pintles with varnish giving you a rough idle. The mechanics can check out your ride
  7. I side with sguiitk. 10 - 15% is the norm. So, if your car has a base h/p of 500 then you might see a gain of 50. Ever wonder why all those chippers are from the UK? http://www.hyundaicoupe.info/tuning/tuning.html?page=hctuning_1&menu=m_tuning1
  8. Sorry but 53bhp on an ecu remap is a dream. Average is 10 to 15 max and that's mostly for ignition mapping. A much cheaper way to go is to install a K&N air system which is easy and will give you a bit more power. Remember an engine is an air pump. There are many ways to get more air in and make it easier to get out. Engines are notoriously inefficient....more power means more heat and more wear....but more fun!
  9. 1. Engine Flushing is accepted and required by all major fleet managers especially in dealing with engines that need to be optimized after several years of use. The use of air to blow out the upper gallery will push almost a half liter out of the system and since there are no restrictions there is no ill effect. Using air to pre-lube is a common practice to load out the journals, cams and pump preventing a dry start and scouring. 2. It's not a magnetic filter. It is a drain plug that has a magnetic tip. There are no magnetic elements in oil other than contaminants. They stick to the tip and you can clean the plug with a rag. 3. Air filters are cheap and the manufacturers are pretty good. In dusty areas filters get changed every month. You can keep a filter forever if you live in New Zealand, but even there the presence of 15u particles is plentiful. Aspirated dust kills engines. Filters are cheap. Isn't the goal to make your engine last forever at optimum performance? 4. Why don't cars come with synthetic from the factory? It's break-in. Factory oil in new cars comes loaded with an additive to grind all those little parts into a harmonious marriage. That's why you have to dump it after break-in ...flush the rest out....and reload with the best you can get. Synthetics are "small molecule" products (I don't want to explain syns here). They are slipperier and have a better viscosity and thin film range. They are heat resistant. Properly applied, they last incredibly longer. You must know which class of synthetic you have. Class three (a change in verbage) allowed manufacturers to put some mineral in it to bing down the price, so keep with class IIs. I like Wagon Rs and other runabouts. There are lots of tweaks to get the max out of the powertrain. 5. I agree. Let that engine run in. Baby it. When you go for your first free dealer oil change (that's ok...switch to syns after that period) make sure they also change the air filter. Remember...filters are cheap, engines aren't. Blowing out the air filter with air or washing it doesn't work. Even using a K&N or Amsoil filter which you wash, dry and re-oil is touchy. Oil is sucked off, sticks on the MAF sensor and changes the fuel mixture (oh...gee maybe I don't have a MAF but you do have an IAC and when the pintle leaks you are going to have a lot of fun a few klics down the road. Ever notice that everything orbits around keeping things clean?
  10. Let's assume it's a new car and you want to extend its service life while lowering costs. 1. Following the break-in period have the engine flushed at a service center that has the proper equipment. Make sure that following the service they blow out the upper gallery by injecting air into the center of the oil filter nipple on the engine block.....then they need to pre-lube by injecting 200ml at the same point on the block. The best way is to use a 1mt. clear plastic hose. Force it over the threaded nipple on the block. Fill it with and API rated class II fully synthetic oil and use a couple of taps with an air hose to inject it. (yes leave the drain open so the rest of the cleaner can drain out.) 2. Replace the drain plug with a new after market magnetic plug. Install the plug properly (don't over torque it). 3. A Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter is my particular choice so fill it up, lube the ring and install it. 4. Complete the oil change with Mobil 1 severe extended service synthetic oil. 5. Change out the air filter with the manufacturers stock filter every six months. 6. Change the oil filter every six months. 7. Change the oil at 15,000 mile intervals. Ok, you can do it once a year, at 7500 mile intervals or even once a week but with this level of maintenance even Mobil will recommend 15k. You need not flush the engine again. Just keep the air and oil filters changed. This is the first level. There are many, many more things you can do such as oil analysis, by-pass filtering, beta 99 and such and, yes, I changed my mind about by-pass filtering due to positive technological evolution. The end result is greatly reduced maintenance, even in India. A final note:...fully modified diesel truck engines have passed the 2 million mile mark in the USA. The technology exists much to the dissatisfaction of the oil industry.
  11. Aha! The secret is in the details. ie: "...a few tweaks to the engine." The lamentable state of lubrication systems leads the parade. Oil filters have an average porosity of 30 microns giving them the capacity to effortlessly strain out nuts, bolts, soda bottles and other dangerous items that might affect the engine. Unfortuneately, cam and crank bearing clearance is 2 - 4 microns making the principal oil filter an afterthought and somewhat useless. Well I will concede that the oil filter does keep the upper oil gallery loaded via the drain back valve. So what can one do to "tweak" that engine and change that oil at much, much longer intervals?
  12. There is rumor of Honda offering the petrol/CNG option. That is greener and less costly than even diesel.
  13. Ok, I'm almost midway through testing the silicate polish. As requested by the manufacturer, I put it on during the worst of the winter weather in -4c temperatures and it has been there until now (some five months) when the temperature is around 26c. It's been through freezing rain, snow, acid rain pollutants and two whopping dust storms. After six washings (yes I used dish soap), it still shines and I don't have any swirl marks or water spots. Yesterday I washed it with the ph-neutral soap from the manufacturer. It's 26 today and I used the hottest water my hands could stand. It was an effortless wash. Two bird tattoos took about 15 seconds each to swell up before coming off but left no shadow. They'd been there for thirty days. On the front right fender there was a twenty cm long 2 cm wide reminder from a highway worker slinging asphalt around (a sticky brownish mucous). I used pitch remover to take that off. It didn't affect the sealant. Afterwards, I was pleasantly surprised by the performance of the product. It still looked brand new, still shined like glass. Then I freaked out, grabbed the bottle and redid the car to calm my nerves. It only took 20 minutes. I have never had a product that lasts so long and there is still plenty left in the bottle. I called Mr. Perry Stevens (www.glare.com) in the USA and he chided me for re-doing it as he says, "its good for at least 5 years so don't mess up the test." Anyway I'll post another report in five or six months. It still looks showroom new without swirls or the tell tale fade of a wax product. I have another product coming up for test and I'll share that with you after the manufacturer agrees to my "no holds barred" testing methods..
  14. Drain intervals can be extended to 30,000 Miles (50,000Km) with a few tweaks to the engine. Changing the oil is directly proportional to the oil industries vested desire to sell it and has little to do with extending the life of the power plant. It's a good thing. It creates countless jobs and great multi-media presentations. The market provides a zillion variations of lubricants for you to choose and various international agencies rank each in accordance with their own personal bias. Finally, each variation is subject to verbage so contorted and convoluted that English majors delight in its untangling.
  15. Brn2Crz

    Warranty

    Knowing what the warranty covers is a vital exercise. For instance, did you know that the GPS chip supplied with your new car is generally outdated? When you purchase a car ask the dealer for the upgrade policy. Manufacturers will bring the chip up-to-date free for a year. Let's break it down. 1. Before purchasing your dream car, sit down with the dealer and discuss sales incentives. What is that? Well you can get a full tank of fuel, window tinting, a set of gas, oil and air filters, a number of free car washes, seatcovers, dustbrush, babyseat, case of beer...I could go on and on and on.. A dealer is never going to tell you what he can do...you have to negotiate. 2. Bring out the warranty and go over it with a magnifying glass. Oh, dealers hate this. Get the "definition" of "powertrain" and every other term in the book. When and how do the terms of warranty apply? How about the timing belt? Battery? CV joints and Catalytic converter? Seats? Headlamps? 3. Go back to the dealer after you purchase the car, say 3000km and put it up on the rack. Have it inspected and make sure all those bolts are checked for tightness. 4. Within 3 months check every detail of your ride. Does the a/c heat and cool as per the digital readout? Does your GPS register the same KPH as the speedometer? Does the rubber window seal actually hug the window or has it shrunk back allowing the rain to pour into the door panel? When you press on the brakes at 30kph does your vehicle swerve ever so slightly to the right or left? Warranties have a value. It's up to you how to use it. Aftermarket service costs can sour your dream.
  16. Mithrandir I'd like to know if you've done warranty comparisons amongst your target choice group. The warranty may say 3 years or 30,000km for example but within that are a host of "notes". Such as the battery may only be covered for one year and that is possibly prorated. Usually radios, gps and such are only covered for 3 months for replacement and after that (up to a year) they remove them and send them out for repair. Imagine driving around with a gaping hole in the dash for a month or so. How about the power train? Is it bumper to bumper for 36 months? Is is parts only or labor only or both or neither? Check it out. Probably should make this a completely new topic.
  17. Suzuki....mature engine design, easy to maintain and lower operational costs.
  18. Actually, the damage is already done. What occurs happens in the cylinder. The gasoline will pre-ignite, dramatically increase TDC pressure and temperature, dry the head gasket, crack the exhaust manifold, score the cylinders, chip the rings, trash the injector pintle, increase the blow by, create micro fractures in the head and if you tear down the engine you get to see that lovely gasoline signature burned into the top of each piston. This did happen but it's like smoking, if you didn't die immediately, you just shaved a few thousand kilometers off its life. Diesels are pretty forgiving except for large truck engines. I've seen pistons come right out the side and right through bottom.
  19. If price is not an issue, I'd like to endorse the Ferrari 458 Italia.
  20. I agree with sgiitk. You can bolt on but that is just the start. If the vehicle comes with turbo(s) then the engines been spec'd for it. If not, you'll have to test the engine for compression balance, reprogram the chip, get a speedier fan, play with the popoff, modify the exhaust, verify the egts and generally love being a motorhead. It's a great hobby and the above list is just a start. Before turbos you might want to explore other modifications whether they be perfomance enhancing or life extending.
  21. Additives is a bit misleading....if you mean "increase lubrication performance" then it's better to use a different, more expensive lubricant. In fact, stock lubrication systems are generally worthless. They are designed such that engine performance degrades to failure magically coinciding within a few thousand klicks after the warranty period.
  22. -vary your speed. don't keep to a constant velocity -don't accelerate hard or engine brake excessively -break-in should be 3000+km (I prefer 5000km) -don't over load with cargo -don't change oil until the breakin period is over and do it at the dealers -watch the dealer, watch the dealer (watch what they do to your car) -put nitrogen in the tires and be sure the fronts are 3lbs less than the rear -don't ride the clutch or the brakes. -keep the tank full. That's enough for now.
  23. Great article. I'm not sure you can get it in India but if you can get a bottle of GX-301, put half in a full tank of gas and let it do its job. It smells a bit but will dissolve the carbon on the rings, clean up the valve lips and guides and return the engine to optimal condition by increasing the compression. For the paint I suggest www.glare.com. It's a glass sealant I discovered for bullet proofing the paint. For the battery there is a solution but I'm looking for a more cost effective unit. What exists today is a technology that protects the plates and double the life of the battery. So far it's miltary, aviation, industrial but I'm sure there is a low cost civilian model. I will find it. Tires can be puncture proofed if the tires are tubeless tires. Once again there is a military solution for punctures. The rust can be retarded by: a: rustproofing and b: using an antistatic strap. Good luck. I like the pictures.
  24. I got it from a website called www.glare.com. No pictures yet although I did wash it. Came out just like new. From what I understand it's glass. It bonds to the paint and doesn't come off. They warranty it for five years in the USA. My 12oz bottle has enough left to do the twice more so I figure it could do at least 4 cars the size of a Suzuki Swift. I'd say it's a pretty heavy duty industrialized solution for surfaces suffering environmental issues. One thing for sure, it beats waxing every two months. Apparently it's used on boats hulls and Boeing airplanes and such also. I've been trying it around the house. Especially on the tile in the kitchen.
  25. What does "bullet proof" mean? The level of protection is directly proportional to vehicle weight which means that it's going to be quite heavy. But, there is a vehicle for every threat level. I certainly wouldn't go anywhere near a combat zone. It sounds like more of an inner city vehicle for dealing with carjacking and riots. As long as you can move, you have options. If you're in heavy traffic you might want to abandon ship. Even worse, this type of vehicle might inspire false confidence.