sudeepd

Problems faced with Pulsar 180 DTS-i (LCD Speedome

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Hi friends,

1. The side walls of the front tyre have developed cracks in spite of keeping the tyre pressure as per Bajaj Recommendation. The Rear tyre has not developed cracks then how only front tyre developed cracks.

2. When the engine is near 3000rpm (may between 2900-3200rpm), a noise of rubbing metals comes from Engine (i.e., from Below tank but not from rear side of the bike). If the rpm increases above 3500rpm the noise disappears. The noise comes only between approx. 2900-3200rpm. Neither below 2900 (approx.) nor above 3200 (approx.). This noise comes in all gears (Neutral, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th) at approx.2900-3200rpm. The noise sounds like some metal parts are rubbing against each other for lack of lubrication.

What may be the cause for above two queries?

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Ans 1. Get your tyre cheked from any MRF dealer..

may be the tyre is really old and was incorporated by mistake for the bike..

so get it checked from the MRF dealer..,he will help you out easily..

Ans 2. The common problem(what i have observed) is that commonly the shorter silencer cover(below the brake pedal) is loosened..that creates cranky noise..

i hope this helps you.

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The 2nd problem I mentioned above is present in my cousin's 150 also. He also said there is some rubbing metals noise at around 3000rpm if the accelerator is kept constant at around 3000 rpm. If the rpm is varied, the noise disappears.

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Today I showed the 2nd problem to Bajaj Authorized Service Center. But the mechanic (?) was unable to trace that noise. He took it as noise of Front Fairing. I asked him but why does that noise come only at 3250-3500rpm and why not at other rpms (High or Low)? He bothered to keep silence on this.

Anyways I will have to test ride another Pulsar to find out more about this.

Also the mechanic (?) at BASC advised (?) me not to use Premium Petrol but use Normal Petrol Only.

STUPID MECHANICS.

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UPDATE ON SECOND PROBLEM:

The noise has disappeared. Now there is no Grinding noise near 3000rpm Mark.smiley32.gif

I don't know what cured it.

BUT NOW I AM USING "CASTROL ACTIV XTRA 20W50 OF API SL + JASO MA2" AND XTRA PREMIUM PETROL.smiley20.gif

    ANYWAYS I AM HAPPYsmiley4.gif THAT NOISE HAS DISAPPEARED BY ITSELF (MAY BE DUE TO "CASTROL ACTIV XTRA 20W50 ENGINE OIL" OR "XTRA PREMIUM PETROL").

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The Grinding Noise (?) cropped up again 1 month ago. I used the bike in that condition till 31st May. Then I showed to a Former Bajaj Authorised Service Center. The Owner inspected the bike by test riding. He traced that the Grinding noise was coming from Fuel Tank Vibrations.

The Fuel Tank used to vibrate whenever the Engine stayed in around 3000rpm range which I assumed to the Engine Noise (Rocker Arms or Bearing).

The owner of garage added some packing to the Fuel Tank Mounting Bolt Under the Seat and Voila! The noise gone.

Now the Grinding Noise does not come around 3000rpm or any Rpm. Touchwood.

EDIT:

I replaced the Front Tyre MRF 2.75 X 17 Zapper with Ceat 2.75 X 17 Zoom. Now the Ride Quality has much improved as against MRF. The MRF used to give me Hard Hits when ridden over Potholed Roads. But Ceat is Softer than MRF and absorbs the Bumps Efficiently. Touchwood.sudeepd2009-06-12 07:28:38

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Your new tires have lot of rubber, being new they are more supple hence the difference in the ride feel.

for this size 2.75 i guess only the OE tire suppliers are a option.

Please note tread pattern makes a difference, ribbed design is meant for directional stability and lighter handle bar controls, while mutidirectional treads are good for wet surface use, offcourse today MRF and Ceat as OE come in a combination of these two On my CBZ the front is a 3.00 Metro Black cat, wonder if any of you have used this tire, grip wise it allow for complete stability even at extreme lean angles which I usually take it is complemented with a 110 Michelin assymetric tread, the bike feels heavy but its managable.

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My Old OE MRF Tyre was used for Only 11,000+kms. Taht means it had lots of Tread Remaining. But I changed the Front Tyre due to the cracks developed on both the sidewalls. You can see the pics of Cracked Sidewalls in my other topic--"Problem Faced by me with MRF Tyres".

Since MRF has Harder Sidewalls than Ceat, I felt Ride Quality much better with Ceat.

As far As I know, I have not tasted Better Ride Quality for long time with those OE MRF Zapper.

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Instead of creating a new topic for my query, I thought of posting here since this topic has heading "Problems faced with Pulsar 180DTSi".

I have 2 years old Pulsar 180 Dtsi.i.e.with LCD Speedo.

Since yesterday evening, the Starter Motor of my Pulsar 180 failed.i.e., the Starter Motor is not even cranking let alone Starting the Engine.

All other Electricals (Horn and Indicators) are working properly (On Battery).

Can any one please guide me on this.

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