luukie

Repairing my Accent

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Hi all, I am new to this forum. Last day I bought a used 2000 hyundai accent GLS. It has some front wheel sound and tight power steering. So when I went to a service outlet they asked me to replace the following parts..

1) Joint & Shaft kit - front axle(Left)

2)Ball joint kit-suspension lower arm(Right)

3)End Assy-Tie rod (Right)

4)Link Assy-stabilizer(right)

Here are my doubts... The service guy told, even if you replace the Joint & shaft kit front axle, there are chances(though slim) that something may break(I think its Drive shaft something). So you got to change the axle as a whole. Is it true?

Also he advised not to go for DeCarbonising as the vehicle has already done 90K, and so with the huge carbon deposit there are chances that the engine may blow out. Any light into this please, you gurus.....

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The Accent makes for a good used buy. I would suggest you replace the axle as a whole. You can identify a worn axle if you hear a continuous clicking sound when you turn or during acceleration or deceleration in some cases as well. The petrol Accent's driveshafts aren't expensive unlike the CRDi's.

 

If the engine is sounding fine and performance is good, no need. But have the timing belt looked at. Give her a good service and change all oils. Let us know if there are any more issues.

 

FRG

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Also he advised not to go for DeCarbonising as the vehicle has already done 90K' date=' and so with the huge carbon deposit there are chances that the engine may blow out. Any light into this please, you gurus.....


[/quote']

GUYS THIS SOUNDS STRANGE TO ME HOW CAN IT BLOW THE ENGINE??smiley3.gif

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According to one school of thought - carbon deposits in an old engine help maintain a proper seal between moving parts.

So - removing the carbon deposits can actually reduce engine compression and hence cause a drop in engine performance ("engine may blow" is just a crude way of putting that).

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you have bought a car which has already some high mileage on it and after 90 k a car needs some major repairs.....so go ahead and repair your car and do get the engine de-carbonisation done cause accent drinks a lot of fuel if its not given the  treatment !!!!

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I am sorry to disappoint you lukie but you seem to have been ripped off by the used car dealer.

You need to take the car back to him and get those parts replaced from him.

If you were going in for a car with such high mileage then these aspects need to be examined first.

Any ways the carbon deposits on a four stroke multiple cylinder car will not be any time severe for the life time of the car and the engine. Decarbonization if you must then use the additives available in the market which can be mixed with fuel.

This concept of removing carbon from the engine is long gone with the 2 STROKE MOTOR, please note this.

The service guys now planning to rip you off.

If the drive shaft is Ok there is no chance that the suspension repairs are going to affect the drive shaft.

There is no direct technical corelation.

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Decarbonization if you must then use the additives available in the market which can be mixed with fuel.

Yeah the service guy too spoke something like this... about some additives...

How does it work? Will it affect the economy or performance..?

The service guys now planning to rip you off.

If the drive shaft is Ok there is no chance that the suspension repairs are going to affect the drive shaft.

There is no direct technical corelation.

Tommorow I am taking it to a private garage here, whom one of my friends owning an accent reccomended. He says this garage fellow does a neat job... 'L update then....

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GUYS THIS SOUNDS STRANGE TO ME HOW CAN IT BLOW THE ENGINE??smiley3.gif

When decarbonizing, some solution is made to pass through all the parts of engine. And, with this solution teh carbon deposit is burned out. So when the carbon deposits are high the heat generated would be very high, which the engine parts may not withstand...

This is what the service guy explained.....

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GUYS THIS SOUNDS STRANGE TO ME HOW CAN IT BLOW THE ENGINE??smiley3.gif
When decarbonizing' date=' some solution is made to pass through all the parts of engine. And, with this solution teh carbon deposit is burned out. So when the carbon deposits are high the heat generated would be very high, which the engine parts may not withstand... This is what the service guy explained.....[/quote']

That is pure BULL!!!!!

go ahead with the decarb if you want, are there any specific reasons for this? if you have low power or pick up suffering then you need to check other aspects, like a blown gasket, FI problems, fuel filters, fuel feed, ECU tuning etc.

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Hello guys....

I showed my car to that expert mechanic my friend recommended. But to my surprise this fellow was an accident-car-expert. So he dint find any probs with my car. The front sound and the drive shaft, suspension problem he says, all happens to a 90k run car. So no need to repair is what he says. Only repair when it is completely non-functional is his line of thinking. So I drove the vehicle to a bosch service centre where the mechanic was able to identify each and every problem that i thought was problematic. They 'l let me know the estimate and the exact parts that need replacement today.

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I got my car yesterday. I replaced all those parts mentioned by the hyundai service at almost 60% percent the quatation they gave.

Following are the replaced parts.

1)Steeering Tie rod end Rs620

2)CV joint Rs1450

3)Stab Link \ Bar RH Rs450

4)Steering Ball joint Rs680

5)Axle Boot Rs110Brake shoe Rs1200

And as a peace-of-mind, I changed all the spark plugs, oils and filters.

The overall rattle has almost disappeared except for some good vibration at certain low rpms.

This is due to the engine mounting, which the Bosch people said, had tweaked the bushes and fixed. So I returned the vehicle to replace those bushes. The mechanic first tried to tweak the Rpm so that those low rpms are not met frequently. But still was vibration was existent. So I asked them to replace those bush.

This vibration pops up only when the vehicle is in idle and the AC is on(at 500 to 600 Rpm range). When I press the acclerator a little, this dissappears( at 750 to 950 Rpm range). What the mechanic first tried was to set Rpm to this level(750 to 950) when idle with ac on.

Could anyone tell me what should be the normal Rpm reading for an idle car with the ac on?

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The idling RPM is supposed to increase by 100-150 RPM when the AC is switched on. There is a sensor/switch for this and it might be faulty/disconnected in your car.

Please have it checked.

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The idling RPM is supposed to increase by 100-150 RPM when the AC is switched on. There is a sensor/switch for this and it might be faulty/disconnected in your car.

Please have it checked.

This may not necessarily be the case in non-carburetted cars. The idle stabilisers in many cars do not increase the revs when the AC is switched on.

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This may not necessarily be the case in non-carburetted cars. The idle stabilisers in many cars do not increase the revs when the AC is switched on.

Doesn't the ECU do the same thing when it senses that the AC is on (and if the battery is undercharged or the electrical load is on the higher side) ? My logan diesel's ECU has a circuit that does this.

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Neithere of my Hyundai's Accent & Santro do that. Change in idle if any in the Accent is under 50 rpm, as for the Santro it does not have a tacho, but I hear zilch change in the note! In general in petrols the idle stabilizer circuit takes care of the load variation, and a faster idle with AC is not required.

sgiitk2009-04-27 11:43:51

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Has the A/C compressor bearing been examined.

The oil needs to be checked. at 90K you better do that.

Try analysing the engine rpm when you press the A/C switch ON and when you switch it off. When you switch on the A/C you will hear a click sound and observe that the compressor immediately should start running at this point the engine RPM rises and when you turn it off the compressor should stop running immediately and the RPM should fall, observe this when standing near the engine bay, you may be able to some diagnostics

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@Sgiitk - Thanks' date=' that - I did not know.

@luukie - please ask about the idle issue an a Hundai A.S.S and see what they have to say.

[/quote']

I had taken it Hyundai ASS. They, after their intial test drive, said this would be of the mounting bush.

But just now when I called the Bosch guys, they say, they inspected the mounting and is intact and so they are going to scan the ecu.

Can faulty electricals make vibration?? Finds illogical... as its all about dampening the vibration the engine makes....

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Has the A/C compressor bearing been examined.

The oil needs to be checked. at 90K you better do that.

Changed all the oils and filters. They checked A/C compressor bearings. all intact.

PS: How do I edit the post made earlier? Dint find any edit button so had to make a new post.

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Has the A/C compressor bearing been examined.

The oil needs to be checked. at 90K you better do that.

Changed all the oils and filters. They checked A/C compressor bearings. all intact.

PS : How do I edit the post made earlier? Dint find any edit button so had to make a new post.

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Hi Luuki, I guess edit option is available once you cross initial 50 posts. Till then try to post sufficient data in single/one post if posting within short span of time(10-15mins).

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The idling RPM is supposed to increase by 100-150 RPM when the AC is switched on. There is a sensor/switch for this and it might be faulty/disconnected in your car.

Please have it checked.

After the ECU scan they say a sensor and a relay is the culprit. A sensor to draw power from the engine is what I understood(not sure though, as I could talk only over phone). But still I am skeptical over this theory as this vibration is also evident when I move the vehicle on first gear at certain low Rpms without AC. If I push the Rpm a little further its smooth.

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