mohash

Hero Honda CBZ overheating

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Hi guys,

Please help to get rid of my bike heats up.

My bike HH cbz super spirint 2002 model, its driven only 23000 kms so far. The bike is driven properly, stopped many times at home as idle.

The problem here is, the bike get heats up when i have driven only 2 or 3 kms(quick heat), the bike started to cook my leg when i driven about 18 kms. I have checked with my mechanic, he tried the all ways he knows as follows: I am getting milleage around 35 kmpl.Some engine noise is there, no smoke problem at all.

ways are:(problem exists after tried all the ways follows)

Clutch plate changed, Silencer changed, plug are fine, Oil changed three times in the gap of 300 kms, Head opened and check the piston and volve (both are fine), I have added extra massage oil with volvine and castrol 2040 oil - still same problem exits, RPM needle stays is 1000 rpm, Timing changed. When bike engine very heat, the rpm needle is not stable - moving slowly.

Please help me any one on this.

Thanks

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If you decode 20w50 oil, the 20w is its viscocity. This oil will be thick and would take time to enter all the parts.

The Synthetic oil I mentioned will be like 5w40 that would cost about 1000 per litre. Many people advice against Semi-Synthetic oil(10w-40).

 

I've read some where, that one person got synthetic oil for 400Rs or so. It will last 4 times as your normal oil.

 

Mobil 1 & Shell are good oil.

 

Fully Synthetic Characteristics 0W-30,0W-40,5W-40

Fuel economy savings
Enhances engine performance and power
Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposit build-up
Ensures good cold starting and quick circulation in freezing temperatures
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly

carbibles.com
creativebala2010-12-15 10:00:04

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If the recommended oil is 20W50 then there should be no problem.

Let me correct a bit. If an oil is mmWnn then mm is the viscosity of the cold oil. W stands for winter grade.  As the oil warms up it gets thinner (all do). nn indicated that it gets no thinner than nn when hot. A low mm indicates fast circulation, while if the nn is below what is specified then you risk metal rubbing metal (the oil film may break) with disastrous results.

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Thank you bala, great reply. let me try and explain you. (would the Mobil1 or shell available in the oil shops near by woodland theatre in chennai - any idea)

 

Thank you sgiitk, great explanation about 20w50-mmWnn. Finally come to know about the form of 20W50.

 

Thank you people.

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Woodland theatre has Chennai's motorworld nearby viz GPRoad, so you can get it easily

 

@Sg sir,

All 150cc bike are suggested 20W50 oil, wich is a mineral one. If we want to go for a fully synthetic, I have never seen 0W50 or 5W50 in the market, its only 30/40 as in your nn. Will it harm the engine badly?
creativebala2010-12-15 12:24:10

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Hi,

 

After tried all the ways (above i mentioned), mechanic says overheating could fix by completely open the engine and rebore it(already he opened the head and checked(no issues)). But i am very hestitate to rebore the engine, since the bike is driven only 23000 kms done and i dont get any smoke problem in silencer but some noises are there in engine.

 

Please tell me, would the engine heat arrested after i change systentic oil (mobil or shell 5w40)?.

But i checked with other mechanic, he saying it will be rectified automatically by using the bike reguarly. Please suggest me which way i have to choose?

 

please some one explain if the bike is driven very less kilometers in 8 years,(if problem exists? or this is anyother issue)

 

Thanks in an advance

 

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Yep, sorry for the late reply. Old model CBZ is the rank1 vehicle, comparing with all the other 150cc bikes. This is an usual and normal complaints at old model or rarely used vehicles. Let me guide you mohash. First purchase the "ENGINE OIL FLUSH"(probably it will be a small tin or can). while purchasing, ask to the shopkeeper about how much of the flush ml should be added to the one litre of the bike engine oil. Also purchase one ELF engine oil, and one valvoline engine oil(valvoline costs around 180 to 220rs). And purchase the "BARDAHL" engine oil additive(for petrol engine).

Now take this all to the mechanic shop, and strictly ask him to do this procedure without any fail.

1) drain off the engine oil which will be already at the bike engine

2) Now, fill the ELF oil at the engine and add engine oil flush(shopkeeper recommed ml).

3)Now kickstart the engine and allow it to run for 30mins continuosly(Must).

4)Drain off all this engine oil after 30mins completed, you may notice many carbons and oil layers like semi rubber state will be carried out away during the drain.

5)Now, the last process add the specified valvoline oil to the engine freshly. Here, add the Engine oil additive "BARDAHL" along with the valvoline.

 

Drive home your bike with problems solved, this is strictly recommended if you want your vehicle back. SATISFACTION GUARENTEED!smiley20.gif

 

-dinesh

(always the racer wins atlast)

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I think we are discussing the case of engine overheating and not oils per se.Frankly I think for normal vehicles and driving Synthetics are a gross overkill. If you are using the correct oil (incl. taking care of the dry/wet clutch issue) then we must look elsewhere for the problem.

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Thank you ravi, great experience, Let me try that and will write here later,

 

Can you plz say me how much cost would take do these things.

 

So i could careful while buying oils

 

Thanks

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Drive home your bike with problems solved' date=' this is strictly recommended if you want your vehicle back. SATISFACTION GUARENTEED!smiley20.gif

 

-dinesh

(always the racer wins atlast)
[/quote']

Nicely explained reply Dinesh.

When you have tried it and on which bike?

Is volvoline better than elf?

Alok Mathur2010-12-17 11:32:09

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alok@ Valvoline is better than castrol power too! Try it. On the otherhand, You can use the Shell brand too, but its not satisfied my needs when i used at my zma and r15. I have lot of experiances regarding the superbikes. But i came to india just recently. I am reading every indian bikes/cars everyday. I restored one 2000model CBZ which started to give same probs day by day, i used this same method.

 

-dinesh

(always the racer wins atlast)

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We are missing the point. Unless it is a wet/dry clutch issue can anyone with his hand on his heart honestly say that the overheating is due to oil A and will go away with B. Both being decent oils.

Please do not try and misguide a newbie.

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It is not about changing the engine oil, here it is explained about flushing out the old engine carbons and dirts., then installing the engine oil additive along with the valvoline. Moreover, mechanics can figureout easily by riding the bike once, donno which type of technicians are at the roadside nowadays. I am sure there is no prob at the mechanical parts.Otherwise, finally the clutch issue has to  be considered for our sake.

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